《经济学人》双语：纽约曼哈顿街边特色小吃?

原文标题：

World in a dish

In the street kitchen

What Manhattan’s street-food vendors reveal about their city

盘中世界

街边摊

曼哈顿街边小吃摊贩所展现的城市面貌

The lessons of a day in Midtown with Sherif Baioumy and his halal cart

在市中心，与谢里夫·拜奥米和他的 *** 餐车共度一天的收获

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Sherif baioumy’s morning begins at around 7am in a garage in Queens, where he loads up his cart with the day’s food: marinated chicken, a ten-pound skewer of ground lamb, rice, vegetables, hot dogs, falafel, frozen chips, canned soft drinks and bottled water.

早上7点左右，谢里夫·拜奥米就开始在皇后区的一个车库中将一天的食品装车：有腌制鸡肉、10磅的羊肉串、米饭、蔬菜、热狗、沙拉三明治、冷冻薯条、软包饮料和瓶装水。

A colleague hitches the cart to the back of a pickup truck, and by 9.30 they’ve rolled it into place on the south-west corner of 48th Street and 6th Avenue, in the heart of office-worker Midtown.

他的同事将推车挂在一辆皮卡车后面。9点半时，他们把车开到48街和第6大道的西南角，那里是上班族聚集的市中心。

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Soon the lamb is rotating on its skewer, chicken is sizzling on the grill and falafel burbling in the deep-fryer (the cart is a symphony of efficient design, without an inch of wasted space).

很快，串上的羊肉开始转动，烤架上的鸡肉滋滋冒油，炸锅里的沙拉三明治也咕嘟作响（这辆推车空间利用十分得当，没有一寸地方浪费，宛如一曲和谐的交响乐）。

Too many people consider food vendors a nuisance, or somehow déclassé.

很多人都不喜欢摊位小贩，认为他们不上档次。

In fact they play a vital role—not just by feeding people, but as living records of their cities’ changing habits and demography.

实际上，他们却扮演着非常重要的角色——不仅为人们提供食物，还是城市的习惯和人口变迁的见证。

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The next eight hours are a steady stream of frying, wrapping and unceasing banter.

接下来的8个小时里，烹炸和包装反反复复，玩笑声也层出不穷。

Calling Mr Baioumy friendly is like calling water damp; he is ebullient and warm, whether fist-bumping with his regulars or enticing passers-by.

拜奥米的友善显而易见；无论是和常客来一下顶拳，还是对过路人吆喝买卖，都能看出他的热情奔放。

In restaurants, where chefs are generally secreted in the kitchen, they can afford to be surly.

在餐馆，因为厨师们通常都猫在厨房里，所以他们急躁一些也无伤大雅。

Buying lunch from a vendor is a more intimate experience, and chatting to him as he cooks is part of the charm.

而从摊贩那里买午餐则是一种更近距离的接触。边做饭边跟顾客聊天是这行的一种独特魅力。

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Mr Baioumy runs one of Manhattan’s “halal carts”, a term with a meaning specific to New York.

拜奥米是曼哈顿地区众多“ *** 推车”经营者中的一员，而“ *** 推车”对于纽约来说也有独特的意义。

Usually overseen by Afghans, Bangladeshis or Egyptians like him, they mainly serve halal chicken or lamb over rice or in a pita, garnished either with “white sauce” (a bafflingly popular spiced mayonnaise cut with vinegar) or hot sauce.

这种推车通常是由阿富汗人，孟加拉人或像拜奥米一样的埃及人来经营的，主要在米饭或皮塔饼上搭配 *** 鸡肉或羊肉，再配上“白酱”（一种加过醋的蛋黄酱，非常受欢迎）或者辣酱。

Much like pho stalls in Hanoi or taco trucks in Los Angeles, New York’s halal carts have similar menus, but each vendor has his own style.

类似于河内的河粉摊或洛杉矶的墨西哥卷饼车，纽约的 *** 推车也有类似的菜单，但每个小贩都各有自己的风格。

Mr Baioumy’s marinade has an almost Mediterranean flavour, with strong notes of lemon, garlic and rosemary.

拜奥米的卤汁类似于地中海风味，带有浓郁的柠檬、大蒜和迷迭香的味道。

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These carts were unknown a couple of decades ago, when souvlaki was the street lunch of choice.

几十年前，这些摊位还不为人所知。当时，烤肉串是街头午餐的首选。

But as immigration from Greece slowed and Greek vendors aged, newer arrivals took their place.

但随着来自希腊移民数量的减少和年龄增长，后来者取代了他们的位置。

That cycle recurs around the world.

全世界都呈现出同样的趋势。

Grilled chicken, papaya salad and sticky rice came to the streets of Bangkok—home to perhaps the world’s most delicious and varied street food—with migrants from Isaan, the country’s impoverished north-east.

烤鸡肉、木瓜沙拉和糯米饭出现在曼谷的街头——这里或许是全世界街边摊中最美味、最丰富的的地方——随之而来的还有来自泰国东北部的贫穷城市伊桑的移民。

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The work is gruelling, especially in the heat.

这份工作很辛苦，特别是在高温天气。

Mr Baioumy reckons that on a good day he takes home $200 in profit, but every two years $20,000 of that goes to the Florida-based owner of his licence.

拜奥米估计，生意好的时候他一天能赚200美元，但每两年他就需要付2万美金给该摊位在佛罗里达的营业执照持有者。

Because New York issues a paltry number, the licences are valuable commodities, though that is set to change: the city will give out 4,450 more in the next decade, and will require the holders actually to run the carts.

由于纽约发放的执照数量少得可怜，因此这些执照成了宝贝。不过，这种情况即将得到改变：在接下来的十年里，纽约市将再发放4,450个执照，并将要求执照持有者本人经营摊位。

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In time, the chicken and lamb that Mr Baioumy sells may seem as unremarkably American as bagels or hot dogs, both of which were once the province of immigrant vendors.

随着时间的推移，拜奥米所卖的 *** 鸡肉和羊肉或许也会像百吉饼和热狗一样，成为平平无奇的美式食品。后两者都曾属于移民摊贩的经营范围。

But as the food evolves, New York’s food carts serve the same function: offering a quick meal and friendly greeting to a city eternally in a hurry.

但随着饮食的发展，纽约的餐车也发挥着同样的作用：在这个总是忙忙碌碌的城市中，为人们提供一顿便捷的餐食，和一声友好的问候。

（恭喜读完，本篇英语词汇量约616左右）

原文出自：2022年6月25日《The Economist》Culture版块。

精读笔记来源于：自由英语之路

本文翻译整理: Fei Min

本文编辑校对: Irene

仅供个人英语学习交流使用。

【补充资料】（来自于网络）

纽约街边小吃：在街边的小摊上，你能买到最实惠、最纯正的早餐面包圈配咖啡。每天早上，当地人跑到地铁站旁的一个银色的小餐车旁，排起长长的队买热腾腾的早餐。狭窄的货架上放满了烤好的面包圈和各种糕点。煮好的咖啡装在纽约人惯用的蓝白色纸杯中，也成为纽约的一个特征，就像黄色出租车和脏水热狗一样。

伊桑，泰国北方的一个地区，位于湄公河流域北方及东方。西南方是柬埔寨，西方的碧差汶山脉将泰国北部和泰国中部分开。

【重点句子】（3个）

Too many people consider food vendors a nuisance, or somehow déclassé.

很多人都不喜欢摊位小贩，认为他们不上档次。

In restaurants, where chefs are generally secreted in the kitchen, they can afford to be surly.

在餐馆，因为厨师们通常都猫在厨房里，所以他们急躁一些也无伤大雅。

The work is gruelling, especially in the heat.

这份工作很辛苦，特别是在高温天气。

自由英语之路